The Cluny Museum on the Left Financial institution within the coronary heart of Paris is commonly ignored in favor of the Louvre or the Orsay or different world-class sights. However when you love the weird and are attracted by the Center Ages, the Cluny will likely be a discovery you’ll lengthy bear in mind. Listed below are a few of its highlights.
Like 1000’s of different guests to Paris (I reside in southeastern France), I by some means bypassed the Cluny Museum for years and solely determined to lastly go to after studying concerning the well-known Girl and the Unicorn tapestries.
I did it mistaken the primary time – I rushed via to the tapestries, that are situated close to the tip of the go to, and uncared for what’s certain to be probably the most astounding assortment of artwork from the medieval period in France.
Just a few weeks later, I used to be again in Paris, and my resort occurred to be situated subsequent door to the Musée de Cluny. It was an indication, and so I rushed again. This time, having seen the tapestries as soon as, I took a extra leisurely method – and stumbled upon lots of the treasures I had missed.
So don’t make the error I did, and take your time visiting the museum because it unfurls. I’ve tried to make it simpler by highlighting 11 masterpieces I believe it is best to search for (sure, it is a very subjective checklist!) in your first go to.
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It’s formally referred to as the Nationwide Museum of the Center Ages, however everybody is aware of it as “the Cluny”, and whereas it’s most positively a medieval museum, it’s constructed on high of the ruins of Gallo-Roman baths, symbolically bridging the hole between the 2 eras.
You possibly can see the baths from the skin, however non permanent exhibitions typically happen within the indoor space, shielding components of it from view.
Positioned within the fifth arrondissement on the Left Financial institution’s Latin Quarter, this extremely wealthy museum is inside straightforward strolling distance of Notre-Dame, just some blocks from the Seine River.
11 Treasures of the Cluny Museum
A lot of you could be in a rush to learn concerning the Girl and the Unicorn tapestries, and your (comprehensible) anxiousness might rob you of a go to to the remainder of the gathering. Because of this, I positioned them close to the tip of this story however – when you actually can’t wait – go forward and click on via to the tapestries now. Simply don’t neglect to return again!
1. The Frigidarium, or Roman baths
As I discussed, the Cluny is constructed upon historical Gallo-Roman baths, of which solely the frigidarium (or chilly room) stays, together with its extremely excessive (14m/46ft) vaulted ceiling. It dates again to the first or 2nd century CE and appears to me related in general look to the Constantine Baths within the southern metropolis of Arles.
These have been as soon as a part of the thermal baths of Lutetia (the Roman identify for Paris), among the many largest baths within the metropolis.
If I checklist the Roman ruins first, it’s as a result of the baths are situated proper on the museum’s entrance. And if they’re partly hidden by an exhibit, don’t fret, you may discover extra Roman ruins, largely partitions, scattered all through the museum’s decrease flooring.
However now, time for the Center Ages, which is in spite of everything what the Cluny is all about.
2. Gallery of the Kings of Judah
While you stumble into this gallery, your first response may be shock.
On one facet, a sequence of headless statues. On the opposite, a sequence of heads – with out statues.
The statues (with heads) as soon as stood alongside the western façade of Notre-Dame Cathedral, however have been eliminated through the French Revolution. They confirmed topped heads and as we all know, the revolution was anti-monarchical, so the statues have been torn down and beheaded, mistakenly thought to characterize kings of France.
These Thirteenth-century statues as soon as stood alongside the western façade of Notre-Dame in Paris earlier than being ripped out through the French Revolution. ©OffbeatFrance/Leyla AlyanakThey weren’t French kings in any respect, however the Kings of Judah, ancestors of the Virgin Mary.
Two centuries after the revolution, in 1977, a number of statues and fragments resurfaced, the medieval sculptures unearthed throughout excavations within the ninth arrondissement.
Solely 21 of the unique 28 statues have been discovered and positioned within the museum, however this stays one of many main French archeological finds of the twentieth century.
3. Funeral slabs and decor
Funeral monuments have been used for so long as societies have existed, and a number of other intriguing examples are within the Cluny.
There’s a set of funeral stones mounted on the wall in your left as you head into the principle a part of the museum (see above), however the one which intrigued me probably the most was this small sculpture of two canines.
Most males’s tombs are guarded by the marginally extra majestic lion, identified for its bravery, however in the case of ladies, canines are sometimes used as an emblem of constancy.
4. The treasure of Guarrazar
In fact there’s a treasure on the Cluny.
The Treasure of Guarrazar got here from Spain (then Hispania) through the seventh century. It’s extremely wealthy, with crowns and gold crosses and treasured stones, all given in tribute to the Roman Catholic Church by Visigoth kings.
These crowns weren’t designed to be worn, simply uncovered on altars for all to see ©OffbeatFrance/Leyla Alyanak5. Stained glass home windows from the Sainte-Chapelle
There’s a beautiful exhibition of stained glass home windows which as soon as belonged to the Sainte-Chapelle, constructed by Saint Louis to carry the sacred relics. The items of stained glass are scattered all through the room, created through the Thirteenth century with new glass methods that have been denser and extra colourful.
The statues have been all sculpted by completely different artists, which accounts for his or her variety in types ©OffbeatFrance/Leyla Alyanak6. Altarpieces
Spiritual artistry being supreme within the medieval period, it shouldn’t shock us that a lot of the period’s creative expertise could be put to make use of to adorn spiritual gadgets and constructions.
The Cluny has a number of beautiful examples of spiritual altars, each long-established in metallic or sculpted in wooden, utilizing a form of “microsculpture” method that reveals the unbelievable craftsmanship concerned right here.
Basel Cathedral altar dates from the early eleventh century in gold, symbolizing each gentle and wealth, donated to the church by the German emperor on the time, he and his spouse are proven prostrated on the foot of Christ, displaying their private devotion ©OffbeatFrance/Leyla Alyanak
This wood altar dates from the early sixteenth century and was sculpted in Flanders, in Antwerp, displaying a mass being celebrated. Left, lamb being sacrificed; proper, benediction of Abraham. ©OffbeatFrance/Leyla Alyanak7. Bookbinding plates
The museum has a number of e-book covers designed to be used of outstanding publications, reminiscent of illuminated manuscripts. I merely discovered these magnificent and needed to share them with you.
8. Listing of goldsmiths
That is an uncommon merchandise and I’ve but to establish precisely the way it was used, however it’s a listing of goldsmiths from town of Rouen, displaying every particular person punch or stamp, maybe to assist in authenticating beneficial works.
9. The chapel
The chapel is a pleasant room and also you’ll miss the very best half when you don’t search for.
There was as soon as direct entry to the backyard from right here, however immediately, what compels us is the construction’s structure, which revolves round a single pillar resting within the heart, from which unfold 4 ribbed vaults. Small however intricate.
Along with the ceiling, a small priory with polychrome painted panels stays within the room ©OffbeatFrance/Leyla AlyanakThe chapel was commonly utilized by the homeowners of the constructing, the Abbots of Cluny, who used it as their Parisian residence. At this time, it’s the metropolis’s oldest standing “resort particulier”, or medieval Paris townhouse.
10. The chess gamers
This tiny gem (far smaller than it appears to be like on {a photograph}) is product of shiny yellow stained glass, and the competitors of the sport would possibly properly mirror a distinct sort of competitors, maybe involving a little bit of romance. Simply take a look at the facial expressions! To not point out the way in which her hand is gently positioned on his arm, or the angle at which he’s leaning ahead…
11. Girl and the Unicorn tapestries
And now, right here we’re, eventually.
Six legendary tapestries from the late fifteenth century, most likely woven in Flanders, whose expert weavers have been extremely wanted.
Every tapestry is a standalone, and tells its personal story a few unicorn and a girl. All observe an identical visible theme, with related colours, and backgrounds full of animals and flowers within the “millefleurs” model.
And but, nobody actually is aware of what they imply.
They could characterize the 5 senses, with the sixth devoted to one thing rather less concrete, like soul or coronary heart or love. Others see in them some form of seek for religious enlightenment. You possibly can learn what you need into them…
The Girl and the Unicorn, intimately
The tapestries are thought thus far again to the tip of the fifteenth century, commissioned by a wealthy household from Lyon, the Le Vistes, whose coat of arms you may see scattered all through the tapestry sequence. An artist would have been employed to attract them, with the drawings then despatched to Flanders for weaving.
We solely know this as a result of after being misplaced to historical past for some 4 centuries, they resurfaced immediately.
The primary time they have been delivered to anybody’s consideration was in 1841, when gender-fluid author George Sand noticed them on the Chateau de Boussac, the place she was staying. She promptly advised her then lover, Prosper Mérimée, about them, and he had them listed within the listing of historic monuments he was in control of compiling.
Sand (who additionally had a decade-long liaison with pianist Frederic Chopin) wrote of eight tapestries, not six, and historians have been attempting to find out the destiny of the opposite two. It’s believed the homeowners of the chateau the place they have been found, soiled and rat-infested, might have used the opposite two as wagon covers or as rugs, however no hint has ever been discovered.
The Cluny Museum purchased the six current tapestries in 1882, cleaned them up, and the remainder is historical past, offering magic and fascination to everybody who visits.
➽ Lighting within the room devoted to the Girl and Unicorn sequence is designed for remark, not images. I took these with an iPhone however you will discover clearer pictures on the Cluny Museum web site, if you would like to look at them extra carefully.
Sight
Right here, we see a girl holding a mirror in order that the unicorn can see its personal reflection. The mirror might symbolize vainness, whereas the unicorn’s reflection its innocence. Keep in mind that again then, unicorns have been believed to exist and their horns thought to have the power to treatment. They have been fleet, so quick they might by no means be caught – besides by a virgin. They usually symbolized purity and advantage.
The plush backyard, for its half, could possibly be referring to fertility and the fantastic thing about nature, given its many crops and flowers. These, by the way in which, are reproduced all through the tapestries.
The truth that the woman’s hair is free moderately than pinned up indicators she might be single, therefore the extensively accepted virginal theme of this tapestry.
Listening to
The message of sound is evident, with the woman enjoying an instrument and the unicorn listening with rapt consideration. The musical instrument could possibly be an emblem of concord, and even the unicorn appears happy.
Scent
The woman is holding a small bouquet of flowers, whereas the unicorn is respiratory within the aroma of a bush.
The floral bouquet might symbolize sensuality, and the unicorn’s enjoyment of it the decision of earthly pleasures. The coat of arms of the Le Viste household is turning into ever extra seen.
Style
There’s sweetness and indulgence on this tapestry, with the woman reaching for a sweet or sugar. Or maybe she plans on sharing the candy with the unicorn, who appears happy, expectant, even. This can be a picture of shared pleasures, of some sort of mutual involvement or satisfaction.
Contact
The woman holds the unicorn’s horn with one hand and her husband’s coat of arms within the different. Some say this might symbolize wealth and materialism, however the touching of the unicorn might additionally characterize intimacy, or therapeutic (bear in mind the horn’s supposed therapeutic properties?)
À mon seul désir (To my solely need)
And herein lies the best thriller, the woman standing beneath these phrases – which nobody has been in a position to perceive.
She locations her necklace into the casket, which might signify the handing again of earthly possessions, maybe a rejection of types. The tent-like construction might characterize an upcoming journey, with the woman’s gaze inviting us to enter the tapestry’s that means, however with out giving us many clues.
I’m certain you’ve made the connection by now however this last tapestry was additionally featured in Harry Potter and the Thinker’s Stone, because the wall ornament within the widespread rooms of Gryffindor Home, the place it symbolized courtliness, valor and chivalry, qualities a lot revered through the medieval interval.
And so the tapestries of the Girl and the Unicorn have enchanted us, shocked us, however not enlightened us. No documentation about their that means exists, and we will solely guess as we sit within the darkened room, attempting to seize the message she is attempting to ship us.
The medieval mansion that grew to become a museum
As I discussed, a non secular order owned the property till the nineteenth century, when it was damaged up into a number of heaps. One among these was taken up by Alexandre du Sommerard, a senior auditor with the federal government, who occurred to be fascinated by the Center Ages.
When he died in 1842, the French authorities acquired the property alongside along with his artwork assortment, and so the museum opened its doorways in March 1844.
Just a few years in the past, intensive renovations have been determined and it closed for 20 months, reopening in 2022 with a brand new entrance, reception space and present store, all designed by architect Bernard Desmoulin – no imply feat since he needed to take care of the existence of big Gallo-Roman baths…
Earlier than you go…
The sheer magnificence and beautiful craftsmanship of those items are sufficient to rivet guests.
However in addition they serve a historic objective, a bit just like the well-known tapestry of Bayeux, to inform the story of medieval instances, to clarify the luxuries of medieval noble existence, and even to lift the perennial fascination with the legendary unicorn, certainly one of many symbols contained within the tapestries.
The tapestries are among the many best treasures of medieval artwork in existence, for his or her magnificence, after all, but additionally for the intrigue and thriller which envelops them. It shouldn’t shock us that they’ve been collectively nicknamed the “Mona Lisa of the Center Ages”.
THE PERFECT BOOK TO READ BEFORE VISITING THE TAPESTRIES
An intriguing novel, The Girl and the Unicorn, by Tracy Chevalier, imagines the commissioning of the tapestries, their weaving in Flanders, and the meanings behind them. Whereas a novel, a lot analysis went into the e-book, which brings all the weaving course of to life and opens a window into the courtly customs of the time. Purchase it right here on Amazon.
The Cluny, France’s Nationwide Museum of the Center Ages, is certainly one of my favourite Paris museums, up there with the Carnavalet (concerning the historical past of Paris), and value visiting a number of instances, so subsequent time you’re in Paris, don’t miss this little gem.
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