Every year, hundreds flock to the Lyon Avenue Meals Competition, a four-day celebration of meals at costs low sufficient to style all of it, excellent in case you occur to be in Lyon in mid-June. I am going yearly and right here’s what I discovered on my newest go to.

You’d suppose {that a} competition with “road meals” in its identify could be all about burgers and brochettes – however no. That is France, and we do issues in a different way! 

In fact you’ll discover loads of these recent finger meals on the Lyon Avenue Meals Competition, however you’ll additionally uncover jewels of French gastronomy in its broadest sense, together with connoisseur meals, fusion meals, regional meals and sure, just a few meals vehicles for good measure.

If I sound enthusiastic, it’s as a result of together with the annual Lyon Competition of Lights, that is my favourite Lyon outing of the 12 months.




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The competition

The competition just isn’t a brand new custom in Lyon and has been going yearly since 2016 with a single objective: pulling cooks out of the kitchen and bringing them to the individuals.

The brainchild of two foodie vacationers, the inspiration got here from the night time markets of Hong Kong and the meals vehicles of San Francisco. It’s all about constructing group round meals.

The occasion succeeded past everybody’s wildest desires and is now an enormous four-day extravaganza mixing meals, tradition and music (with bands and dancing within the night to work off all these energy), and on the agenda of Lyonnais each mid-June.

If you happen to’re planning a visit to Lyon and occur to be a foodie, why not construct a part of your go to round this enjoyable occasion?

In 2024, the competition moved to an deserted railway yard after years in its unique venue, an deserted equipment manufacturing facility. Not the anticipated backdrop for a meals get together! ©Leyla Alyanak/OffbeatFrance

The idea is easy: an enormous venue, crammed with stalls, providing recent meals in small parts at low costs.

It’s additionally academic, with loads of workshops, and explores not solely meals however wines too – how may it’s in any other case, with Lyon smack in the course of the Beaujolais and Côtes du Rhône wine areas? Drinks, by the way in which, have been each bit as current as meals…

As quickly because the annual competition dates are introduced, you should buy your tickets on-line on their web site, for now solely in French, however I believe you possibly can muddle by means of. French for ticket is “billetterie”, and there’s often a giant button to click on.

When you’ve purchased your entrance ticket, you may also purchase a so-called “Cashless” card. You establish how a lot you need to spend, pay on-line, and decide up your card if you get to the competition. You too can high it up on web site in case your starvation or curiosity get the higher of you and also you run out of funds on the cardboard.

If you happen to get there early, you’ll in all probability have to face in line to get in, however issues transfer rapidly.

Inside, you possibly can join cooking workshops (they’re all in French), after which the wandering begins. Some individuals (like me) plan out their journey beforehand, realizing which cooks they need to style. You received’t know the precise dishes till you arrive, although.

Mainly the competition is split into 4 themes in the course of the day:

  • French gastronomy
  • International specialties
  • Sweets and desserts
  • Wine and different drinks

The way you empty your card is as much as you! Within the night, it’s get together time.

My very own expertise

I’m not the world’s best festival-goer as a result of I don’t like crowds, however this one is particular and I by no means miss a 12 months.

Standing in line to style one thing by Anne-Sophie Pic or Christian Têtedoie or to hearken to the musings of Mauro Colagreco is value each painstaking minute. Additionally in case you’re a fan of the French version of Prime Chef, lots of the finalists take part on this competition, and it’s a bit unusual to satisfy them and really feel you already know them so effectively.

It is not all about gastronomy, and there is loads of road meals and choices from lesser-known or newer cooks, most of whom have eating places in Lyon, so you possibly can pattern right here first, they usually head for a full meal in case you preferred what you tasted.

I often map out what I need to attempt, as a result of the extra in style or better-known cooks will quickly have crowds lining up, and I need to be sure I’m in!

I have a tendency to decide on 2-3 important dishes (keep in mind, these are small parts) from cooks I like, after which head off to pattern 1-2 new and upcoming cooks I’ve by no means heard of however who’re providing one thing that catches my eye. This can be a nice venue for them to check their newest combos, by the way in which. 

I all the time head for Denny Imbroisi’s rigatoni with truffles. He’s there yearly, they’re cooked proper in entrance of you, and he’s not stingy with the truffles, an ideal appetizer. I additionally wander over to the Spanish stand for some croquettes, one among my favourite tapas, though I’m undecided they’re pretty much as good as these these I’ve eaten in any good tapas bar in Madrid.

Lyon Street Food Festival offering of rigatoni with truffles
lyon festival croquettesPrime, Denny Imbroisi’s extraordinary rigatoni with truffles and under, ham and spinach croquettes ©Leyla Alyanak/OffbeatFrance

All of that is eaten at lengthy communal tables, with sufficient area to be by yourself in case you’d like, however loads of alternatives to speak with others, since everyone seems to be right here for a similar cause: to pattern nice meals.

That mentioned, getting a phrase out of anybody is troublesome – the very best you’ll do is “Wow!” or “mmmmm” and some ecstatic hand gestures. We’re busy consuming, proper?

People walking around and eating at the Lyon Street Food Festival

I don’t drink so the wine stands are misplaced on me, however the competition is an efficient approach to pattern wines from a wide range of areas and uncover new flavors.

The so-called Sugar Palace, a piece populated by pastry cooks, is often my last cease and I be sure I’ve left some room each in my abdomen and on my card to do a bit extra analysis.

Pastry chef serving a customer at the Lyon Street Food Festival

A dozen or extra are laborious at work.

Whereas everybody has assistants, that is your probability to see the precise cooks at work.

Some stands have a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (Finest Employee of France, an elite group it’s a must to move a diabolical check to hitch), distinguishable by the tri-color band round their collar.

Chef Christian Tetedoie prepares food at the Lyon Street Food FestivalChristian Têtedoie making ready meals on the Lyon Avenue Meals Competition – discover the MOF band on his collar ©Leyla Alyanak/OffbeatFrance

At one other stand, I watched college students from a culinary faculty (below the watchful eye of their chef) scoop up a little bit of (do-it-yourself, in fact) grapefruit sherbet, blanket it with strawberry purée, sprinkle it with crumble, and high it with vanilla spuma straight out of a siphon, as casually as utilizing a stapler. Having tried this myself and needed to almost repaint my kitchen in consequence, I perceive simply how suave all of it is…

One other pattern (sure, I did loads of analysis) concerned a raspberry brioche (mitigated response: very tasty, however an excessive amount of brioche and never sufficient raspberry), and a chocolate upon chocolate concoction whose identify the sugar hit has made me overlook however for which I’d gladly stand in line for an hour.

mathieu viannay

My best remorse of the competition?

Not having sufficient room to attempt the andouillette by Mathieu Viannay of the Mère Brazier, one among Lyon’s most well-known eating places. Subsequent 12 months, if he’s there.

What precisely is road meals, anyway?

By now it’s possible you’ll be questioning…

In line with streetfoodcentral.com, “road meals is cooking and serving recent meals, drink, or dessert from a transformed meals truck, meals cart, or meals stall for fast consumption.”

Listed here are a few of the traits of road meals:

  • It’s casual and informal. You’ll discover it in meals vehicles, in fact, but in addition in markets or, in lots of nations, at hawker stalls alongside the road or in meals courts. There could even be seats, however that is the other of a proper restaurant. Nobody cares what you seem like or what you’re sporting. Typically, when there’s seating, you’ll share a small communal desk – it may be a social expertise, in case you so want.
  • It’s native, made by locals and often (however not all the time) reflecting native specialties. In Thailand, you’ll discover a wide range of skewers or fried rooster items, however you’ll additionally discover these in North America and Europe. However largely, as a result of these stalls cater to locals, you’ll discover on a regular basis favorites that mirror native tradition.
  • Avenue meals is often reasonably priced. It’s inside everybody’s attain, and is typically even cheaper than consuming at house. Vacationers find it irresistible, however so do native individuals.
  • It varies. Whereas some road meals are ubiquitous, like falafel within the Center East, often you’ll discover number of totally different dishes, with stalls competing with each other (not formally although) to draw probably the most clients.
  • Avenue meals is recent and ready on the spot, though some pre-cooked and reheated dishes do sneak in. Largely, although, it’s cooked proper in entrance of you so that you’ll make sure it’s sizzling, crammed with taste, and probably adjusted to your individual style (extra chilli? much less?)

So does the Lyon Avenue Meals Competition qualify?

Completely!

It’s extraordinarily casual, with complete households steering strollers across the meals stalls and having fun with a time out. Whereas there are some vacationers, most individuals who go to are locals, right here to find new delicacies or style choices from superstar cooks in a relaxed ambiance – no candlelight, liveried waiters or tablecloths right here!

Many of the meals is native, though every year, the competition does delight itself on highlighting the meals of different nations. In 2024, for instance, the main target was on Korea, Puebla in Mexico, and Spain. It modifications every year (though I’ve been seeing Spain as a continuing).

lyon festival korea
lyon festival puebla

Avenue meals is supposed to be reasonably priced, and this is likely one of the joys of the Lyon Avenue Meals Competition. Every dish is round €6 (USD 6.50), with a only a few as excessive as €8 however many as little as €4. You’ll be able to pattern so much with out breaking the financial institution.

There’s definitely loads of selection, from culinary delights ready by Michelin-starred cooks to smashed burgers and lightweight finger meals, all ready for fast consumption.

And virtually every part is recent. Many of the meals is ready on web site, though, in just a few difficult circumstances involving domes or refined constructions, a dish is likely to be partly ready forward of time however cooked on the premises.

So though it’s a bit offbeat on the subject of road meals, this competition has all of it.

Earlier than you go…

If you happen to’re a foodie and love the meals of France’s gastronomical capital, be sure to embody this competition in your Lyon itinerary. Not solely is the competition satisfying, however you’ll get a novel probability to observe the locals and imbibe some French tradition.

Mid-June is a perfect time to go to, and you may also get pleasure from lots of the metropolis’s different points of interest… 

If you happen to plan on staying greater than a day (and I hope you do) be sure to e-book a lodge or house effectively forward of time!


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