Once I journey I’m continually in search of out lovely locations to see, locations the place I can simply wander round and soak within the environment. Throughout my go to to Aveyron in October, I made a cease within the fortified village of Conques for 2 causes: first, to walk round and discover the medieval village; and two, to see the stained-glass home windows at Église Abbatiale Sainte-Foy. One disenchanted me. The opposite didn’t.
1. Conques: Why Is It So Well-known?
Conques is positioned 625 kilometres south of Paris and 200 kilometres north of Toulouse in southern France. What makes this village so well-known is that it was (and nonetheless is) a pilgrimage cease on the Camino de Santiago. In 1998, the village was designated a UNESCO World Heritage of Humanity listing (Routes to Compostela in France) and continues to draw pilgrims to the village and well-known church.
Conques has retained the medieval structure and with the well-known Abbey towering over the city, it’s completely lovely and value a go to. Not surprisingly, it is without doubt one of the 11 villages in Aveyron to be designated probably the most lovely villages of France “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France”.
2. Abbatiale Sainte-Foy, Conques
The village is particularly well-known for the church that’s within the centre of city, the Abbatiale Sainte-Foy. Specifically are the stained-glass home windows on this Romanesque church which was constructed within the eleventh century. It changed the Tenth-century basilica and over the centuries has confronted structural points (the lantern tower collapsed), fires set by Protestants within the 1500s, and disrepair within the nineteenth century. Consequently, there have been fixed restoration initiatives and at the moment it’s in fairly fine condition.
(a) The Tympanum Of The Final Judgement
To not be missed is the Tympanum Of The Final Judgement, positioned above the primary door of the Abbey. It’s superb that there are no less than 124 carved figures and it has survived by means of so many centuries intact. At 3.50 metres excessive, one can see the intricate particulars within the inscriptions and sculptures that had been carved into the stone.
The carvings present scenes from the Bible with Jesus on the centre. He factors as much as the precise (towards heaven) and right down to the left (towards hell). On his proper are angels and delightful surroundings, representing paradise. To the left is Hell, with demons and devils who torture and drag sinners into world of chaos. That is probably the most attention-grabbing (and creepiest) half. Saint Michael weighs souls on a scale and they’re despatched both to Heaven or Hell.
(b) The Controversial Stained-Glass Home windows
Pierre Soulages
French artist, Pierre Soulages, was commissioned by the Tradition Ministry in 1986 to create 104 home windows for the Sainte-Foy Abbey. Soulages is greatest recognized for his daring, black artworks and museum in Rodez, known as Musée Soulages. I visited this museum throughout Journey #35 and located his work to be “totally different”.
As you possibly can see, the usage of black is all over the place. It additionally had reveals in regards to the home windows at Abbatiale Sainte-Foy in Conques. Not my cup of tea however I’m glad I visited. À chacun son goût. (To every his personal)
Home windows At Sainte-Foy Abbey
Soulages didn’t need the surface environment at Sainte-Foy Abbey to distract viewers. Nor did he need vivid colors clashing with the church environment and Romanesque stone. Slightly than creating conventional, vibrant home windows, Soulages used “water white or achromatic” glass, glass that was not clear however would let in mild. The pure mild that got here into the church might work together with the glass in such a manner that will change the color, depth, and chromatic impact relying the place you had been standing.
The home windows at Saint-Foy Abbey, which had been accomplished in 1994, are what disenchanted me. I really like vibrant stained glass home windows in medieval church buildings. They inform tales and infrequently depict scenes in historical past.
Love It Or Depart It?
In my view, the Soulages home windows on the church simply didn’t match with a home of worship that’s so extremely previous. The home windows had been too stark and fashionable. I’m so glad the restoration at Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris maintained the unique design. I want Conques had finished the identical, preserving the standard stained glass that one typically sees in sacred locations.
I’m not alone in having this opinion. In truth, when the home windows had been first introduced there was a lot debate and controversy. Some discovered the fashionable, minimalist design was not acceptable for a Romanesque abbey and truly clashed with the medieval environment. Others discovered the white home windows revolutionary and that they made the entire environment extra non secular.
3. Medieval Conques
I liked strolling alongside the community of cobblestone streets by means of this properly preserved, small, medieval city that sits on the slopes of a mountain overlooking the gorges and Dourdou River. Heading to the upper areas of Conques was worthwhile for the scenic views and totally different views of the Abbey Church of Sainte-Foy. The medieval structure of this fortified city is putting and lots of the homes have slate roofs.
Many have mentioned that it appears like Conques got here out of a fairytale and is untouched by time. You’ll nonetheless discover remnants from the Center Ages, reminiscent of:
- 4 gateways and towers from the thirteenth century such because the tower that defends the Porte de la Vinzelle
- communal bread ovens constructed on the ramparts within the moat
- small buildings the place chestnuts had been dried
- public fountains and chapels
4. Don’t Miss In Conques
Along with wandering round and visiting the Abbey, you would possibly contemplate visiting Le Tresor D’orfevrerie—Goldsmith’s Treasure—which holds a wealthy assortment of medieval goldsmithing going again to the ninth century. There are some spectacular gold, silver and treasured stones in reliquaries which maintain non secular relics and stays. Having such reliquaries introduced status, pilgrims, and wealth to Conques. The crown jewel that pilgrims, specifically, have at all times wished to see is the reliquary of Saint Foy, also referred to as The Majesty Of St. Foy.
Religion (Foy in French) was a Christian lady who refused to surrender her Christian beliefs or pray to pagans and she or he was martyred in Agen in 303 A.D. and her stays had been secretly delivered to Conques in 866. A gold statue reliquary (accommodates relics) is roofed in gold and treasured gems.
5. Conques’ Vacationer Workplace And Outlets
The vacationer workplace was very useful and I used to be supplied with a superb, free map that confirmed the important thing websites and strolling route. When you go to Conques within the shoulder or excessive season, you’ll encounter extra retailers which can be open, together with ones that make handmade objects.
6. Parking In Conques
At first I debated parking on the street that was beside the doorway to the village; nonetheless, I modified my thoughts and drove by means of the gate and parked within the centre of the village. There have been a number of areas. I’m glad I did as a result of it meant much less strolling again to my automobile. As properly, a charge might need been required anyhow on that facet street. So my recommendation is, simply drive into the village. Upon leaving, I ended on the exit and earlier than leaving, paid for my parking (6 €).
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