Saint Remy de Provence, within the coronary heart of Provence, is understood for its Roman ruins and for Vincent van Gogh: he right here created over 150 work. On my newest go to I used to be lastly in a position to go to the birthplace of Nostradamus, the well-known seer on whom Catherine de Medici depended throughout the Renaissance.
My most vivid reminiscences of Saint-Remy de Provence are… exterior city.
It’s true, a number of the most fascinating sights are situated alongside its edge, inside strolling distance however away from the middle, however that’s the place a lot of Saint Remy’s historic previous lies.
After my circuit alongside the sting of city, I in fact head for the middle. It is not usually I like to recommend leaving a city first with a view to see it higher.
That is a kind of instances.
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Saint-Remy-de-Provence, additionally written Saint Rémy de Provence (with and with out the hyphens and the accent) or St Rémy for brief, sits within the coronary heart of the Alpilles, a string of limestone hills in Provence whose identify means “Little Alps”.
It’s inside simple driving distance of many sights of the Alpilles, the Luberon, or Provence basically, so in the event you’re eager on some fabulous Roman ruins or are a fan of Van Gogh, that is an important cease in your South of France street journey or go to.
4 Key sights on Saint-Remy’s outskirts
I desire visiting the sights round city after which returning to discover Saint-Remy correct. I am unable to fairly let you know why, however the stroll and the historical past put me into the proper way of thinking for visiting the city. However in fact, you possibly can flip this the wrong way up and begin wherever you need!
For Saint Remy de Provence, I wish to get the extra bodily sightseeing out of the best way earlier than the most popular a part of the day.
I start my day with a stroll away from the middle of Saint-Remy round 8:30am, observe the Van Gogh path for an hour. Stuffed along with his artistry, I then enter Saint-Paul-de-Mausole, the asylum the place Van Gogh discovered a lot creativity.
Having quenched my thirst for Van Gogh, I then flip my consideration to the Romans by beginning at Les Antiques (it by no means closes), throughout the primary street from the asylumn. After a little bit of an admiration, it is time to go to the archaeological website of Glanum (opens at 9:30) and spend a while among the many Romans.
All this may be achieved on foot, though you possibly can drive to the ruins in the event you desire – there’s loads of parking. If you happen to try this, although, you will miss a number of of the explanatory panels alongside the Van Gogh path, however there are fairly a couple of on the asylum, so you will no less than see some.
After Glanum, it’s lunch time, and I return to Saint-Remy (ideally with a restaurant reservation, if it’s excessive season).
1. Strolling with Van Gogh
An excellent place to start out the Van Gogh path is on the Saint-Remy vacationer workplace, the place you possibly can choose up a map of the path with all of the stops included.
It’s solely a few 20-minute stroll, however that’s in the event you don’t cease to learn every of the 19 panels. You likely will, because the level of the panels is to clarify what Van Gogh himself may need been seeing as a painter. I’d give the stroll about an hour.
The path ends at Saint-Paul-de-Mausole, the place Van Gogh sought refuge after going via a tumultuous interval in Arles (bear in mind the ear incident?)
2. Saint Paul de Mausole: Van Gogh’s sanctuary
Maybe essentially the most well-known chapter in Saint-Rémy’s trendy historical past started in 1889, when Vincent van Gogh admitted himself to Saint-Paul-de-Mausole, the place he would create over 150 work, together with a few of his most well-known.
Throughout his year-long keep on the asylum, Van Gogh alternated between intervals of lucidity and intense emotional turmoil. But it might nonetheless become some of the productive and inventive intervals of his life.
His masterpieces from this time embody “The Starry Night time,” which exhibits a swirling evening sky over a quiet city, and “Irises,” impressed by the asylum’s backyard. Each time he left the asylum to color across the countryside, extra inspiration would come, because it did in his “Wheat Discipline with Cypresses” work, their sweeping fields and towering cypresses so typical of Provence’s panorama.
Contained in the asylum (which nonetheless capabilities, by the best way) you will see a re-creation of Van Gogh’s modest bed room; his was not a lifetime of luxurious.
The cloister and chapel, tranquil areas the place he discovered solace, are additionally open to guests, as are the gardens which so impressed him.
Outdoors the asylum, dotted all through the fields, artists work to recapture the essence of Van Gogh and see the gorgeous view and panorama from his perspective.
3. Les Antiques
Simply exterior the asylum, heading alongside the drive in the direction of the primary street, cross the road and also you’ll come face-to-face with two magnificent Roman ruins, the Triumphal Arch and the Mausoleum of the Julii.
The 2 constructions have fun Roman victories and vital residents, and singled out the doorway to Glanum close to the Through Domitia, France’s oldest street, which as soon as linked Italy to Spain via Provence.
The Mausoleum of the Julii, erected round 40 BCE, honors the outstanding Julii household of the traditional metropolis of Glanum (extra about Glanum in a minute).
This majestic construction rests on a columned base with a frieze stuffed with battle scenes and mythological figures.
Above the bottom, a sq. podium with 4 Corinthian columns results in ana carved archway, topped with a sculpted pediment (see under) exhibiting a hunt scene. On prime is a smaller cylindrical chamber with statues of the deceased, an emblem of reverence for the afterlife.
Subsequent to the mausoleum is the Triumphal Arch, which as soon as marked the northern entrance to Glanum and celebrated the city’s integration into the Roman Empire.
The keystone options an elaborate determine, most likely Victory or a Roman deity, with intricate reliefs of captives in chains, symbolizing Roman conquest and energy.
Collectively, these historic monuments not solely served sensible functions but additionally trumpeted Roman engineering and imperial ideology.
And now for the pièce de résistance…
4. Glanum
Whereas the 2 monuments that make up Les Antiques have at all times been there, the ruins of Glanum have been solely uncovered in 1921.
Glanum was based within the sixth century BCE by the Celts. Its strategic location close to an important spring attracted settlers, and it flourished underneath Greek affect earlier than being conquered by the Romans in 27 BCE. With the arrival and victory of Julius Caesar within the area, the Romans reworked Glanum right into a bustling and complicated metropolis.
The sacred spring is revered for its therapeutic properties. It drew settlers to the world and throughout it, you possibly can see what’s left of the altars and temples devoted to varied deities.
Glanum’s residential neighborhood as soon as had luxurious Roman homes for its refined inhabitants, with intricate mosaics, courtyards, and well-planned dwelling areas.
The general public baths, important to Roman social life, are examples of their superior engineering, with their heating techniques and separate bathing areas.
The discussion board, the town’s political and social hub, was surrounded by administrative buildings and temples, a bustling heart of commerce and administration.
Glanum as soon as had defensive partitions and gates, reflecting its strategic significance. Listed here are some pictures I took of what is left of the Roman metropolis.
Glanum has a typical roman grid sample of streets, public areas, and a correct infrastructure.
The ruins of retailers, properties, and public buildings present a peek into day by day life, and artifacts corresponding to pottery, instruments, and cash join the town to its previous. The stays of temples, altars, and non secular gadgets spotlight the significance of faith in Roman life.
This was a city with a thriving financial system. It addition to its man retailers and stalls, the fertile lands of Provence supported agriculture, offering meals and assets for Glanum’s inhabitants.
The Roman Empire declined, and Glanum was deserted within the third century CE resulting from barbarian invasions. Its inhabitants moved to a close-by hill, the place they established what’s now Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.
In the course of the Center Ages, the city grew round a Benedictine abbey, Saint-Rémy, which lent the city its identify.
If you happen to get pleasure from Roman ruins, Glanum is a spectacular website, of which I want rather more had survived. Ensure you spend no less than an hour right here, and if it is a vacation or trip time, get your ticket beforehand to keep away from the traces to go to this historic Roman metropolis.
…and three important issues to do inside city
Now that you simply’ve seen what the outskirts have to supply, it’s time to go into St Rémy to benefit from the city’s welcoming vibe and meandering streets.
5. Roam round city
Strolling round medieval cities, particularly in the event that they occur to be in Provence, is definitely one in every of life’s extra pleasurable actions.
Attempt to goal for the Wednesday morning weekly market, with its cheerful Provençal textiles and mountains of soaps and olives (and be sure you get there early, earlier than the crowds). Preserve getting drawn in by the attractive scents of lavender and stroll away with a bunch.
On summer season Sundays, go to La Route des Artistes, an out of doors modern artwork exhibitions, the place artists present their works alongside the boulevards that encompass the historic heart.
Meander among the many outdated fountains and drop into one of many many artwork galleries, on the lookout for that particular spot or buy.
Make the most of being on this a part of France to go to a flea market if there may be one which day (the vacationer workplace will know) or style some native meals of Provence − dishes like ratatouille (a vegetable stew) or something “à la Provençale”. If you happen to’re picnicking, seize a pissaladière, a melt-in-your-mouth onion tart with anchovies and olives.
There are many wines locals pair with the area’s splendidly sunny delicacies, particularly its cool, crisp rosés.
6. Go to the Musée d’Estrine
Take a little bit of time to go to the Estrine Museum, housed in a sublime 18th-century mansion.
It celebrates the work of Vincent van Gogh with reproductions of work he created whereas in Saint-Remy, together with a number of displays that discover his methods, his evolution, and his ideas and struggles throughout his time right here.
The museum additionally homes a Provençal artwork assortment, with works from a number of outstanding native artists − Charles Camoin, Auguste Chabaud, and André Marchand − who have been vastly influenced by their area’s panorama and lightweight. How may they not be!
7. Pay homage to the birthplace of Nostradamus
Nostradamus, or Michel de Nostredame, is likely one of the most influential seers of all time, well-known for the 942 predictions in his e book, Les Prophéties, or The Prophecies.
However these are written in obscure poetic quatrains that folks nonetheless can’t interpret to everybody’s satisfaction.
Catherine de Medici, spouse and mom of kings, relied on him closely, inviting him to courtroom and asking him to look at her royal kids − and chart their horoscopes.
He was a medical physician who made good by promoting magic potions and publishing an annual almanac stuffed with predictions, a bit just like the horoscope books now we have as we speak (or did, in the beginning went on-line). He based mostly his predictions on these of different seers and on observing the skies, turning into a famend astrologer.
To me, no go to to Saint-Remy can be full with no stroll previous #6, rue Hoche, the place the magus was born…
Bonus sight: oil tasting in an olive mill
This isn’t precisely a sight however it’s definitely a worthwhile vacation spot.
If you happen to’re driving and are a fan of olive oil, cease by the Moulin du Calanquet simply exterior city.
This family-owned olive mill presents oil tastings (much more enjoyable than I anticipated), explains the harvest and manufacturing processes in the event you’re , and naturally sells loads of its personal merchandise, which I’m nonetheless utilizing a number of months after my newest go to. Drop them a line in the event you’d like a tour (they communicate English) or simply cease by to choose up a couple of goodies.
Finest time to go to Saint Remy
Like most of France, visiting low season or throughout the shoulder season is essentially the most nice. Provence is hotter than the remainder of France, and in summer season, being out and about could be draining.
- Spring is delicate and a time when the whole lot is in bloom, so the surroundings is at its greatest, as is the climate. In Could, you possibly can benefit from the Fête de la Transhumance, when shepherds convey down their flocks from their winter to summer season pastures.
- Summer season is ideal for festivals and markets, and naturally, lavender fields. But it surely’s the height vacationer season, so along with the warmth, anticipate crowds.
- Fall, like spring, is nice weather-wise, and a very good time to participate in wine-harvest associated actions. And there are fewer crowds. However no lavender…
- Winter, which for some purpose is my favourite season, remains to be delicate in comparison with the remainder of the nation, and it’s the quietest time of 12 months (and costs drop). The draw back is that some issues are closed or have shorter opening hours… however there’s nonetheless a lot to see and do.
Attending to Saint Remy en Provence and getting round
It’s extraordinarily simple to achieve in the event you’re driving: it’s a half-hour from Avignon, the Metropolis of the Popes and website of the well-known Avignon Bridge; about 40 minutes from the vintage retailers of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue; and fewer than an hour from the hilltop villages of the Luberon.
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On the town, strolling is one of the simplest ways to get round. Saint-Rémy is pedestrian-friendly and walkable and also you gained’t need to go far to discover its slender streets.
Bike leases are widespread right here, in order that’s an choice, together with electrical bikes do you have to desire a “little assist”.
There IS public transportation from close by cities, however it’s not essentially the most simple.
Whereas I usually advocate a tour or two to go to locations which are laborious to achieve by public transport, I’ve no excursions I can advocate for an in-depth go to of Saint-Remy, since most will cease briefly and embody loads of different pleasant venues − however not, in my view, sufficient time to see the whole lot Saint-Remy has to supply.
In case your time is proscribed and also you’re up for seeing a number of websites in a day, then this tour from Avignon consists of a number of excellent sights, along with Saint-Remy.
Desire to go away from Aix-en-Provence? Right here you go!
And sure, it’s also possible to seize a Provence tour that begins out in Marseille.
The place to remain in Saint-Remy-de-Provence
I can advocate a number of lodges (or you possibly can browse lodges and residences from the map under) however a phrase of warning: though Saint-Remy has loads of lodges, these refill shortly and are sometimes not out there, so please e book nicely forward of time if your journey dates.
Really helpful lodging
- I usually desire to remain in a “Mas”, or conventional nation dwelling. There are many these inside a stone’s throw of Saint-Remy however they go shortly. Simply seek for “mas” in Saint-Remy.
- Lodge Gounod is a mid-range lodge within the coronary heart of Saint-Remy (with parking!)
- Saint-Remy has loads of residences and villas for a couple of nights (or longer).
- For a little bit of luxurious, head for Le Vallon de Valrugues & Spa, additionally inside strolling distance of the middle of city.
Earlier than you go…
Saint Remy de Provence is a kind of cities definitely worth the present of time as a result of there’s a lot to see, and it must be a part of any street journey via southern France or in the event you’re headed to the Luberon, to Avignon and Nimes, or to Arles and the Camargue.
~All pictures on this web page, apart from Van Gogh’s work, are ©OffbeatFrance/Leyla Alyanak
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