It simply is likely to be probably the most exceptional rum distillery in the entire Caribbean: the Rhum JM distillery in Macouba in Martinique, set contained in the rainforest on the base of the island’s towering Mont Pelee volcano.
For practically two centuries, Rhum JM has put out among the world’s best rum expressions, from its celebrated rhum blanc to a rarefied assortment of aged rums.
A big a part of the rum’s brilliance is because of its extraordinary terroir. You see, not like molasses-based rums, the sugarcane-juice rhum agricole of the French Caribbean is comprised of pure sugar cane juice. Meaning yearly the harvest is completely different, yearly the product is completely different, and the way in which wherein the cane is grown, from its varietal to its altitude to its soil to the its location within the nook of a selected parcel can influence the ultimate rum. If you understand rhum agricole, you’ve seen the great methods which French Caribbean producers experiment with all of those elements and extra.
However whereas terroir is important to Martinique’s rum, it’s not the one factor that issues, in fact.
Greater than a decade in the past, on my first go to to the Macouba distillery, I used to be instantly struck by the sight of blue-coated staff on the distillery charring the barrels proper outdoors of the ability.
On the time, even in rhum agricole, that was a considerably uncommon apply. Nevertheless it underscored JM’s dedication to making sure the standard of each single variable that makes a rum nice.
The corporate’s newest launch is a testomony to exactly that: the Atelier des Rhums sequence (actually “rum workshop” sequence), a brand new trio of rums, every of which highlights a unique barrel charring profile (and various wooden varieties) — and the methods every one can affect the flavour notes of a rum.
The particular launch has three expressions: Jardin Fruité, Fumee Volcanique and Epices Creoles. The rums are aimed partly at bartenders, who can use their distinctive traits so as to add untold dimensions to their cocktails.
However the rums are equally fascinating to the connoisseur, pretty expressions of JM’s singular terroir and rum ethos put collectively by grasp blender Karine Lassalle.
The Epices Creole, “creole spices,” has a minimal of three years of getting older inside virgin barrels, with a profile that evokes a spicy notice, bottled at a really welcome 46 levels.
Jardin Fruite (bottled at 42 levels), “fruity backyard,” is a 24-month expression with a mixture of French and American cask getting older and a number of other completely different chars aimed toward a fruitier profile.
The ultimate, Fumee Volcanique, “volcanic smoke,” has what JM calls an “excessive” charring, with simply 12 to 14 months of getting older at a beautiful, sturdy 49 levels.
So what are they like?
The names are true to their profiles.
The Epices Creoles is unquestionably spice-forward: on the nostril there are hints of cardamom, clove, caramel and a touch of fennel; the flavour profile is marked by orange peel, cacao nib and cinnamon and a daring end.
The Jardin Fruité has an aroma of almond, carambola and apricot; you’ll discover flavors of banana, mango and cane stalk, with a beautiful trace of minerality, rooted within the volcanic soil; the end is fantastically rounded, with a notice of cucumber and melon.
The Fumée Volcanique’s nostril is filed with cane stalk and earth; you’ll discover smoky notes of tobacco, darkish chocolate, toasted bread, pepper and a whisper of citrus.
If you happen to’ve ever made a ti’ punch, or substituted in a rhum blanc for a molasses rum in a daiquiri or a planteur, you understand simply how transformative agricole rums may be in a cocktail.
Every of those will take an everyday cocktail and switch it into one thing extra. However these are additionally high quality sippers, notably the Jardin Fruite, which was probably the most rounded and drinkable neat.
They’re not simply good, they’re fascinating, a beautiful instance of the sort of mental creativity and experimentation you’ll discover on the earth of rhum agricole. Tasting the trio in a single sitting is an effective way to take a journey by means of the world of JM.
It’s precisely what you’d count on from a magical, exceptional French Caribbean distillery, one which continues to place out among the finest rums on earth.
For extra, go to Rhum JM.
