The cycle route that runs from Paris to Mont-Saint-Michel in Normandy is wheely excellent says journey author and eager bike owner Amy McPherson…
Simply an hour from Paris by prepare, introduced me to the guts of the Perche Regional Nature Park in Normandy the place I deliberate to cycle a part of the Veloscenic route, la Véloscénie in French. This 450KM cycle route runs between Paris and Mont Saint-Michel, winding its manner via three nature parks and 5 UNESCO listed heritage websites. Alongside the journey you dip out and in of cities and villages that appear to step again in time, and it’s an effective way to decelerate and take in a gentler tempo of life, and to style the flavours of the countryside.
There are round 20 factors alongside the route the place you possibly can rent bikes, and we began our journey on the station of Nogent-le-Rotrou, taking the relaxed choice of e-bikes.
The Fabulous Greenway
It’s so quiet I couldn’t assist considering. The mild silence was virtually tangible. I used to be pedalling alongside a stretch of cycle manner, the wheels of my bike whirring softly on the earthen path lined by timber that had been simply sprouting their crisp Spring greens. The one sound was from the serenading songbirds darting out and in of low bushes.
The vast majority of the Veloscenic route throughout the Perche Regional Nature Park is traffic-free greenway, constructed on a stretch of disused railway line. From metal bridges to outdated station homes that are actually both non-public houses or eating places alongside the way in which, elements of the rail heritage adorned our passage.
From Nogent-le-Rotrou, it’s a straightforward experience to the small village of Rémalard-en-Perche, a spot of slender roads lined with stone homes sporting pastel-coloured shutters. The Huisne river trickles gently by, nurturing the farms and the panorama of the Perche.
Apart from the forgotten villages and hamlets, this stretch of the cycle manner has no important landmarks to talk of. Nonetheless, that’s the fantastic thing about such expeditions. There’s a shock each nook, whether or not it’s an historic church or a set of ruins. And as ever in France, at all times a beautiful little place to eat.
Regional specialties and neighborhood cafés
Our arrival in Rémalard-en-Perche gave us an opportunity to cease and gasoline for lunch. Proper by the cycle manner, the outdated prepare station home is now a small restaurant suitably named En Gare. {A photograph} of the station constructing within the late 19th century exhibits the railway tracks that ran previous doorstep, and the constructing itself has hardly altered aside from contemporary paint and the modernised inside.
The menu of contemporary tomato salad, duck filet and ache perdu, completely stuffed the hole after a morning’s train and set us as much as proceed alongside the mild cycle path, shedding ourselves among the many greenery.
“, within the Orne division, we actually love cyclists,” stated our information Perrine Peigney. “The Véloscénie isn’t simply fashionable with guests, Parisians come right here as a result of it’s so near the town, however native individuals find it irresistible too and lots of of them actually get pleasure from this enjoyable experience. There are such a lot of different nice cycle routes within the division, and there are numerous companies which are nice supporters of biking vacationers.”
We stopped for a espresso break within the city of Courgeon, the place Café de la Place is run by Denis Hurtaud and his son, who had been impressed to maneuver right here from La Rochelle after a vacation biking the Veloscenic route. They had been so in love with the cycle route and the panorama that they determined to create this café as a neighborhood hub and welcome cyclists passing via.
“My subsequent undertaking is to supply tenting lodging for the cyclists on the Véloscénie,” stated Denis, as we loved espresso below an outdated linden tree. “They will relaxation for the night time, have a bathe, have one thing to eat. It’ll be totally tailor-made for cyclists.”
After this fast break, it was time to profit from the truth that we had been in Normandy – and you can not have a vacation in Normandy with out attempting cider.
Cidres du Perche
After a quick return to the greenway, we turned off-piste to cycle via an orchard of apples and pears to achieve the tasting room of cider producer La Maison Ferré.
Grégoire Ferré is passionate concerning the cider enterprise he began 20 years in the past. A tour of the natural farm revealed that he’s not nearly producing cider, however he’s ardent about understanding cider from the bottom up – from the soil to the breed of apples and pears, and how you can hold the well being of the timber and therefore the standard of the fruits. There may be nevertheless, one more reason why cider is particular right here. The AOC label of Cidres du Perche is a newly created nationwide recognition on this deliciously bubbly cider that’s thought of the champagne of the cider world.
And it actually is sweet. Take it from somebody who doesn’t usually like cider!
Boudin de Mortagne-au-Perche
We spent the night time within the historic city of Mortagne-au-Perche, at Hôtel du Tribunal, one among France’s Accueil Velo (Cyclists Welcome) lodging.
On the subject of supporting cyclists, the French do it so nicely. These bike owner pleasant lodges don’t simply “welcome” a bike owner. There are instruments if it’s essential perform a little upkeep, in addition to safe bike parking that isn’t simply an empty room with a door. The superb breakfast buffet is greater than the same old bread, butter, and occasional, they know that cyclists would require an entire day of gasoline.
The following day, we took time to go to this stunning city, residence to the gorgeous church of Notre-Dame, with its atmospheric cloisters and a splendidly preserved medieval centre, however it’s the Boudin, the black pudding of Mortagne that’s king. A lot so, that this delicacy is given its personal annual pageant, the Foire au Boudin de Mortagne, held each Spring.
Popping into the native butchers we every bagged a portion of the black pudding, surprisingly moveable for biking adventures (and filled with protein and fat wanted for vitality)! On the stunning city sq. there’s additionally a small ice cream parlour and an incredible delicatessen for extra peckish delights.
I imply, what good is a biking vacation if you happen to can’t eat your manner via it?
A fast taster for subsequent time
After one other day via greenways and nation roads, we ended the journey at Alençon, a beautiful city with a historical past of lace making. We left our trusty bikes and took the prepare again to Paris. This two-day taster of an journey left me dreaming of a two-week journey. To cycle all the way in which from Paris, to ultimately roll in direction of the coast with the silhouette of Mont Saint-Michel to welcome me. Oh the dream! I’ll be again…
www.veloscenic.com; en.normandie-tourisme.fr
Resort tip: Amy stayed in a single day in Paris on the 25 Hours Resort Paris Gare du Nord. This vibrant lodge has all of the enjoyable parts of a few days in Paris, earlier than or after your Veloscenic journey! Have we talked about free mini bar?
Amy McPherson is a London primarily based journey author whose work has been featured in worldwide publications. Cats, biking and meals options closely in her writing and her weblog at: www.footprintsandmemories.com
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